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Fashion Week Madrid features Catalan designers

11 October, 2012

El Colmillo de Morsa has showcased his work at EGO.

The 56th edition of the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid (MBFWM) featured 41 designers on the catwalk and 20 more up-and-coming artists at EGO, its platform for emerging talent.

One of the most eagerly awaited and well-received participants was the new DELPOZO brand, now led by Josep Font.

We spoke with three young brands that presented their Spring/Summer 2013 collections at the MBFWM, María Escoté, el Colmillo de Morsa and Arnau P. Bosch.

The first, María Escoté, has been showcasing her work in Madrid since 2007. She has been a prominent participant at the former Cibeles Fashion Week: she debuted at EGO – the platform for launching up-and-coming talent – and her last 4 collections were featured on the main runway.

We sat down for an interview just a few days after she wrapped up the all-consuming preparations for her show, entitled “el festí està davant vostre” (The feast is right in front of you).

Escoté has already plunged into new projects: soon she will head to Paris, where she has reserved a private showroom to present her work during the city’s fashion week.

Internationalization is Escoté’s primary goal. After the success of the MBFWM fashion show – the company is selling some of its new designs online – she has already started thinking about expanding her presence in her newest markets: Asia, the United States and London. “I’m very happy with the results of the fashion show, both because of the great press and because we have already sold half of the collection, which we always put online after the show,” said Escoté, who created her brand in 2005.

Young talent

El Colmillo de Morsa also sat down with to discuss its experience on the renowned Madrid catwalk. In cooperation with designer Víctor Von Schwarz, the company – run by Jordi Espino and Elisabet Vallecillo – was chosen as the closing act of the fashion week.

We spoke with Vallecillo after an intense photo shoot that kept the pair busy all day. “We’re preparing the catalogue for our new collection,” said the designer.

The young brand, which shares a study in Barcelona with other designers, has participated in EGO three times. At the moment, El Colmillo de Morsa is not sure if it will return to Madrid next season. As Vallecillo noted, “you can only showcase your work at EGO three times, and after that, you have to present your collection on the main stage. Right now, we’re considering several different possibilities and haven’t made a final decision about future steps.”

The duo presented a collection entitled “Pangea.” Inspired by nature, this newest offer represents an evolution of their style that showcased artisanship and attention to detail.

Soon, El Colmillo de Morsa will also head to Paris. In their case, they will present their work at Capsules, where they hope to attract new clients from across the globe. “Our goal is to expand beyond the borders of Europe. The Japanese, American and Russian markets are our priority, and we will head out in search of new clients.”

Espino and Vallecillo launched their own brand in 2009, and since then, the team has worked together to show that “beauty has many forms, depending on whose eyes are watching.”

Our final interview was with a novice designer, Arnau P. Bosch, who was invited to participate in MBFWM’s EGO after submitting his work to the jury for this showroom for young talents, part of the former Cibeles Fashion Week. We caught up with the designer while he was resting at home and discussed the direction of his professional career.

For his MBFWM debut, Bosch put together a collection called “Queens&Jeans.” “It is primarily based on the importance of belonging to a family or a clan,” he said.

A former employee of Juan Pedro López, the young designer studied at the Bau Design School and won a prize for creativity in ModaFAD’s “On Wheels” competition for young designers. The award gave Bosch the opportunity to put on a fashion show at the Moritz factory during the 080 Barcelona Fashion Week, serving as a springboard for a career which is now beginning to take off.

After showcasing his work at Cibeles, an experience Bosch declared “excellent,” the designer is in the midst of mapping out his professional future. He realizes that his character is best suited to “getting on trains when he sees them coming, which is why he has not nailed down his next steps.” Nevertheless, the collection he presented in Madrid has made him an up-and-coming talent in the design world.

The veterans

These three companies were not the only talents to represent Barcelona fashion in the Spanish capital. The MBFWM also featured acclaimed Catalan brands like Teresa Helbig, who again captivated audiences with her pieces of pure craftsmanship, featuring shades of nude and fuchsia and a passion for details. TCN also sparkled with eye-catching designs showcasing a mix of handcrafted crochet and tricot knit along with military-inspired cotton and linen shorts and one-pieces. Other well-known designers including Martin Lamothe and Guillermina Baeza also returned to the MBFWM stage.

The biggest novelty was Josep Font, who presented his debut collection on the runway. The creative director of DELPOZO – formerly Jesús del Pozo – aims to strengthen the international appeal of the veteran fashion company. Font joined the brand a few months ago; he will be leading its international strategy.

Font chose to present his first show at the helm of DELPOZO at Madrid’s El Capricho Park. The eagerly awaited new collection is, in the words of the company, “the continuation of a story written on a blank bust.”

The audience was enthralled by Font’s delicate, fresh collection, which was marked by an exquisite attention to detail. In fact, Font was one of just three Spanish designers honored by the French Federation for Haute Couture with an invitation to present in Paris.

The MBFWM was followed by the CPM (Collection Première Moscow) International Fashion Trade Show, which was held from September 5 – 8 and featured Catalan companies including Desigual, Bóboli, Cóndor and Promise.

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